Muslin buffs are generally used to begin the polishing and buffing process for many materials. Coarse unbleached muslin buffs are used to remove scratches and prepare metals for for final finishing. Extra-fine combed muslin buffs will produce a high finish.

Tripoli may be a good polishing compound to start with, then work your way finer as your finish requires.

Do not mix polishing compounds on your wheels, or allow charged wheels to come in contact with each other. You may contaminate the wheel with a coarser grit and sabotage your finishing operation.

If you've got the space, hang a board with nails near your work area and hang the buffing wheels not in use. The wheels will be organized and close to your work area. You can quickly see what you have available. The risk of contaminating the buff is greatly diminished.

For highest finishes use of a cotton buff or chamois buff and a fine polishing compound like white rouge.

"Plys" are layers of fabric, the more plys the wider the buffing wheel will be.

20 ply = 1/4" thick
40 ply = 1/2" thick
60 ply = 3/4" thick
(Approximate dimensions)

Stitched buffing wheels are rigid, permitting a more aggressive polishing or cutting action. Knife-edged wheels may be forced into tight nooks and crannies. The more rows stitched, the firmer the wheel.

Unstitched loose buffs are fluffy, and generally achieve finer finishes than stitched buffs. They are not as likely to cut the material being polished, nor be forced into tight spots. Use for final finishing as they lightly dust the polishing compounds away.

Buffing wheels with shellac centers are less expensive than buffs with leather centers. The shellac is painted around the arbor hole, and helps keep the cloth hole from breaking down or fraying.

Buffs with leather centers cost a little more to manufacture, but the centers hold up over time much better than the shellac.